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The Sapphire Coast of New South Wales reaches a dramatic crescendo within the boundaries of Beowa National Park, a wilderness sanctuary that stretches across forty-seven kilometres of rugged, wind-swept shoreline. Formerly known as Ben Boyd National Park, the area was formally renamed in 2022 to honour the deep and enduring connection of the Thaua people to this landscape. The name Beowa is a Thaua word meaning 'orca' or 'killer whale,' a choice that reflects a unique maritime heritage where humans and apex predators once shared a complex, cooperative relationship. For visitors, the park serves as a profound intersection of deep geological time, ancient cultural narratives, and the raw, unyielding power of the Southern Ocean.

The renaming of the park represents a significant step in acknowledging the Thaua people’s traditional custodianship and their sophisticated understanding of the local ecosystem. Central to this history is the extraordinary bond between the Thaua and the killer whales of Twofold Bay. For generations, the Thaua regarded the orcas as their kin, believing the whales to be the reincarnated spirits of their ancestors. Traditional accounts describe rituals and dances performed on the clifftops to call the whales, who in turn would assist the people by herding other whale species into the shallow waters. This symbiotic relationship predates European arrival and remains one of the most remarkable examples of interspecies cooperation in the natural world.

Among the park’s most striking physical features are The Pinnacles, a spectacular geological formation that reveals the ancient history of the Australian continent. These towering cliffs are characterized by their vibrant, contrasting layers: soft white sands at the base are capped by a rugged crust of red gravel and clay. Formed during the Pliocene epoch, approximately three to five million years ago, the formation is a testament to the patient work of erosion and mineral deposition. As the afternoon sun strikes the cliff faces, the red hues deepen against the brilliant blue of the Pacific, creating a visual spectacle that has drawn photographers and naturalists to the region for decades.

The park’s position on the coastline makes it a premier vantage point for observing one of nature’s greatest spectacles: the seasonal migration of humpback and southern right whales. From June to November, these massive marine mammals pass close to the shore as they journey between their Antarctic feeding grounds and the warmer breeding waters to the north. The high sandstone escarpments of Beowa provide natural grandstands for whale watching, offering panoramic views across the water. The town of Eden, located just north of the park, remains a focal point for this activity, maintaining a maritime culture that has transitioned from the brutal industry of whaling to a modern ethos of conservation and respectful observation.

At the southernmost tip of the park stands the Green Cape Lighthouse, an octagonal tower that has guided mariners through these treacherous waters since the late nineteenth century. Designed by the renowned colonial architect James Barnet and completed in 1883, it was the first lighthouse in Australia to be constructed primarily of concrete. Reaching a height of twenty-nine metres, the structure perches on a dramatic headland where the waters of the Bass Strait and the Tasman Sea collide. Its presence was a necessary response to the increasing maritime traffic along the coast, yet even its powerful light could not prevent all tragedies in this unforgiving environment.

The history of Green Cape is indelibly marked by the shipwreck of the SS Ly-ee-moon in May 1886. The passenger steamer, en route from Melbourne to Sydney, struck a reef just below the lighthouse during a clear night, resulting in the loss of seventy-one lives. It remains one of the most significant maritime disasters in the history of New South Wales. Today, the ruins of the old telegraph station and the nearby cemetery serve as somber reminders of the risks faced by nineteenth-century travellers. The lighthouse itself has recently been recommissioned, its original lens once again casting a beam across the sea, bridging the gap between its historic past and its continued role in maritime safety.

For those who wish to experience the park’s diverse landscapes on foot, the Light to Light walk offers a thirty-one-kilometre journey between Boyds Tower and Green Cape Lighthouse. The trail traverses a variety of ecosystems, from dense coastal heathlands and eucalyptus forests to exposed rocky platforms and sheltered beaches. Along the way, hikers may encounter an array of native wildlife, including lyrebirds, sea eagles, and wallabies. The track is designed to be completed over several days, with campsites at Bitangabee Bay and Saltwater Creek providing opportunities to sleep under the vast, unpolluted skies of the South Coast, far removed from the lights of major urban centres.

Beyond the prominent landmarks, the park is home to numerous secluded coves and pristine beaches that offer a sense of profound isolation. Bitangabee Bay, with its calm turquoise waters and sheltered sandy shore, was once a site of early European industry, but it has since returned to a state of natural tranquility. Mowarry Point, further north, provides a more rugged experience, where the forest meets the sea in a tangle of weathered trees and jagged rocks. These quiet corners of the park allow visitors to appreciate the subtle rhythms of the coast, from the shifting tides to the seasonal flowering of coastal banksias and wattles that provide vital habitat for honeyeaters and other nectar-feeding birds.

Beowa National Park remains a vital sanctuary for both biodiversity and cultural memory, a place where the stories of the land and sea are etched into the very stones of the cliffs. The careful management by NSW National Parks ensures that the delicate balance between visitor access and environmental preservation is maintained, protecting this wilderness for future generations. Whether standing on the heights of The Pinnacles or looking out from the lantern room of Green Cape, one is reminded of the enduring power of the Australian coast. It is a landscape that demands respect and rewards patience, offering a rare opportunity to witness the intersection of human history and the timeless forces of the natural world.